"Pay to not update"

This is a way to monetize free software.

Free copies of software receive updates for free. These automatic updates are first in line, with no way to revert to an earlier version. The software soon stops working if it is not the latest version.

Meanwhile, paid copies of the software install updates last in line, or update installation can be turned off. It is also possible to revert to a previous version.

Staeble-Telexon E 85/5.6: Samples [2] - FF - f/5.6

Photos taken with the Sony a7c (FF, 24MP) and the Staeble-Telexon E 85/5.6 at f/5.6.

(Historical artifact from the 1980s: Мир - Космосу! Peace in Space!)

See also related notes:

• Staeble-Telexon E 85/5.6 (M39x1/44): Telephoto lens for [Super] Paxette II (2023-09-27)

Image albums:

• Staeble-Telexon E 85/5.6

exiftool: Lens, camera, film information

Since I use a lot of manual focus [non-electronic] lenses, I try to add EXIF metadata as I remember it.

I use exiftool to do this. The basic metadata to add is the lens model. My experience has led me to these options:

exiftool -P -ext jpg -LensModel="Steinheil Quinon 50/2"  -FocalLength="50 mm" -overwrite_original directorypath

-P means to keep the original date/time of the file

-ext jpg means to process only JPEG files (I don't want to modigy raw files anyway), this allows to point to a directory (directorypath).

Sometimes I also save the aperture value:

exiftool -P -ext jpg -FNumber="2.8" -overwrite_original directorypath

-FNumber is used.

For film scans I also try to add EXIF:

exiftool -P -ext jpg -Make="Vivitar" -Model="V3800N" -Software="Fomapan Classic" -ISO="100" -overwrite_original directorypath

I chose to use -Make for the camera maker, -Model for the camera model, -Sofware for the photographic film name, and -ISO for the film speed (ISO sensitivity).

See also related notes:

• Metadata for film shooting (2024-09-30)

Vivitar V3800N: Viewfinder

The Vivitar V3800N has a pretty good viewfinder, as you would expect from a manual focus SLR (stated 92% field of view and 0.91x magnification with a 50mm lens). There are split-image and microprism aids on the focusing screen.

Out of focus:

In focus:

There are also three TTL metering indicators in the viewfinder (as I wrote before, batteries are only needed for TTL metering):

The "+" indicates overexposure. The "-" indicates underexposure. The green circle indicates correct exposure. Rotate the speed dial or an aperture ring to change the exposure.

The green indicator and a "+" or "-" indicator may glow together, indicating slight overexposure or underexposure (which are OK). 

The disadvantage of the viewfinder is the lack of diopter adjustment.

See also related notes:

• Vivitar V3x00: Light meter limitation (2025-04-15)

Image albums:

• Vivitar V3800N

Samsung NX 20/2.8: Samples [1] - APS-C - f/2.8

Photos taken with the Samsung NX2000 (1.5x crop factor, 20MP) and the Samsung NX 20/2.8 at f/2.8. The profiled lens (distortion) correction is disabled.

See also related notes:

• Объектив Samsung NX 20/2.8 (2011-07-21)

Image albums:

• Samsung NX 20/2.8

Sekonic light meters: Batteries

Battery types used in Sekonic light meters: https://butkus.org/chinon/flashes_meters/sekionic_batteries/sekonic_batteries.htm

(2024-07 version)

Useful information if you are looking for an old Sekonic meter.

Note: Selenium meters often do not use batteries, but their sensor degrades over time, especially in bright light.

Image albums:

• Light meter

Jeep Cherokee KJ: ABS/ESP trouble codes (C1015, C101C, C101F)

This summer, my Jeep Cherokee KJ unexpectedly lightened up ABS/ESP malfunction indicators on the dashboard. After restarting the engine, the lights stayed on.

This is a familiar situation, and the good thing is that it is possible to read DTCs with the emulator CASCADE.

All DTC codes (C1015, C101C, C101F) are associated with the front right wheel speed sensor. And I have both front (old stock) sensors after changing the front wheel hub assemblies (which had their own sensors). So I hope that replacing the sensor with the old one will help.

See also related notes:

• Jeep Cherokee KJ: ABS/ESP working again (2025-01-22)
• Jeep Cherokee KJ: OEM front ABS sensor and Iljin hub (2024-08-14)
• Jeep Cherokee KJ: ABS control module and SZ Viewer (2024-08-09)

Image albums:

• Jeep
• On-board diagnostics

Takumar 105/2.8 series: 4/4 vs 5/4 designs [2]

This is a continuation of the comparison of 4/4 vs 5/4 designs of the Takumars 105/2.8. The Auto-Takumar 105/2.8 (4 elements in 4 groups) and the Takumar Pre-Set II (5 elements in 4 groups).

Does the 4/4 design give a nicer background blur, as is often said? I am not sure. Also it looks like the 5/4 design is more resistant to flare, probably because of changes in the lens coatings.

1. 4/4 design:

5/4 design:

2. 4/4 design:

5/4 design:

3. 4/4 design:

5/4 design:

4. 4/4 design:

5/4 design:

See also related notes:

• Takumar 105/2.8 series: 4/4 vs 5/4 designs [1] (2024-05-18)

Image albums:

• Auto-Takumar 105/2.8
• Takumar 105/2.8 (II)

Vivitar V3600: Rare film camera

The Vivitar V3600 is a rare film camera (SLR with the Pentax K mount). There is a very little information about it. One source claims that the Vivitar V3600 is a camera made by Cosina, as opposed to the Chinese OEM V3000 or V3800.

I don't know if this is true, but the Vivitar V3600 looks like a simplified version of the V3800. It lacks multi-exposure support, DOF preview, and a dedicated meter button. I think the V3600 is the V3000 in a V3800-style body.

See also related notes:

• Vivitar V3600: Rare film camera (2) (2025-03-03)

JJC FDA-S1: Digitizing 135 film

Unfortunately, my Epson Perfection 4490 Photo can no longer scan film. So I decided to go back to digitizing film with a digital camera.

But instead of a handmade construction I use a ready-to-use set. 

This is the JJC FDA-S1 kit. It includes the JJC FDA-K1 adapter for mounting on a lens and the FDA-LED1 LCD light set.

I use the kit with the Pentax M 50/4 Macro lens + the 26mm extension tube. It is enough to scan 135 (36x24) frames. With a little reserve for cropping, the resulting images have a resolution of about 20MP (~152 p/mm, ~3860 ppi) when digitized with the Sony a7c (FF, 24MP).

The strip film holder (for 6 frames) is much stiffer than the holder of the Epson scanner.

But the holder has frame separators, it requires a strict distance between the film frames. If a film camera can't keep this strict distance, the film frames will be covered by the separators of the holder. This makes it difficult to digitize because you have to open the holder and shift a film strip for each frame. Maybe I will buy another copy of the holder (JJC FDA-SFH6) and cut out these frame separators.

Overall, I liked the kit, but if I want to shoot 120 film, I will have to find another digitizing kit.

See also related notes:

• Developing a color C-41 film as a B&W negative (2024-11-23)

Image albums:

• Scanning

Industar-50 50/3.5: Samples [1] - FF - f/3.5

Photos taken with the Sony a7c (FF, 24MP) and the Industar-50 50/3.5 at f/3.5.

The Industar-50 was made in 1958 and is the rangefinder version.

See also related notes:

• Индустар-50: дальномерный (M39) и зеркальный (M39) (2022-04-11)

Image albums:

• Industar-50 50/3.5

Yet another case for the Ricoh GR

I bought another new case (pouch bag) for the Ricoh GR.

The previous one was handy but of poor quality. This new one is very similar, but made of fabric instead of faux leather.

The Ricoh GR fits well.

But the material is quite thick, so the case is a bit bulky compared to the faux leather version.

The good thing is that there is a small pocket inside the new case. It can be used for a memory card, for example.

See also related notes:

• Ricoh GR: "New" case (1+ year) (2024-03-21)
• Ricoh GR: новый чехол (2022-08-03)
• Ricoh GR: субъективные впечатления (2014-03-19)

Image albums:

• Ricoh GR

Sandisk Ultra microSDXC 128GB (for Chinese market)

In a dashcam, I used the Transcend microSDXC 128GB, which degraded over time.

Then I used the Samsung microSDXC 128GB Evo Plus, but now this memory card is in the Sony a7c camera (for long video recording).

So for the dashcam I bought another memory card: the Sandisk Ultra microSDXC 128GB made for the Chinese domestic market.

It is cheap, but not a great card. It is quite slow for modern recording needs.

But it is enough for the dashcam. I am more concerned about its durability.

Overall, this 128GB card is similar to its 32GB version.

See also related notes:

• Китайская карта Sandisk Ultra microSDHC 32GB (2022-02-08)
• Samsung microSDXC 128GB Evo Plus (2022-02-03)
• Деградация карты Transcend microSDXC 128GB Class 10 UHS-I (Premium) (2021-08-22)
• Transcend microSDXC 128GB Class 10 UHS-I (Premium) (2018-08-18)
• Мой новый регистратор TrendVision TDR-719S (2016-10-20)

Image albums:

• Memory card

Staeble-Werk Choro R 35/4.5: Samples [3] - M4/3 - f/4.5

Photos taken with the Olympus E-PL1 (2x crop factor, 12MP) and the Staeble-Werk Choro R 35/4.5 at f/4.5.

Color vignetting ("color shift") is less visible compared to the Samsung NX2000. But, of course, the E-PL1 M4/3 sensor is smaller than an APS-C sensor.

See also related notes:

• Staeble-Werk Choro R 35/4.5: Samples [1] - APS-C - f/4.5 - "color shift" (2024-05-16)
• Staeble-Werk Choro R 35/4.5 (M39x1/44): Very rare wide-angle triplet (2023-10-05)

Image albums:

• Staeble-Werk Choro R 35/4.5