See also related notes:
Image albums:
2024-03-23
Risespray 11/2.8 Fisheye: Samples [2] - FF
Photos taken with the Sony a7c (FF, 24MP) and the Risespray 11/2.8 Fisheye at f/2.8.
2024-03-22
Olympus E-PL1: Malfunctions
My recently obtained Olympus E-PL1 has two malfunctions.
1. This is typical for old digital cameras (same thing as with my Samsung NX10 and NX2000). The time/date resets after a battery is removed from the E-PL1. This is very annoying because a battery should be removed to charge (with an external charger).
2. Another problem is typical for old Olympus. The in-body image stabilization (IBIS) is broken. It doesn't work. And there is the blinking red IS1 indicator on the screen.
However, the camera is still usable (as if IBIS was turned off ).
In general, I planned to use the E-PL1 with manual focus lenses, so IBIS might be more important for live view focusing (at high magnification) than for image capture.
2024-03-21
Ricoh GR: "New" case (1+ year)
In the summer of 2022, I replaced my good old case (pouch bag) for the Ricoh GR with a "new", more handy and cheaper one. Yes, this "new" case is convenient to use, I have made sure of that all the time.
But it has an important disadvantage: its quality is not good.
For a year and a half, the case has been badly worn because a material it is made of is very cheap and poor.
On the other hand, the previous case (which I bought in 2014 for $15) is still in very good condition, with almost no signs of wear. But it's not as practical.
2024-03-20
M42x1-M39x1 adapter (16.7mm)
I already have a modern M42x1-M39x1 adapter (M42x1 for a lens, M39x1 for a camera). This adapter is for non-standard lenses, it is thin/short (4.5mm). For example, I use it for a M40x1/44 lens.
But it is inconvenient to use standard M42x1/45.5 lenses with this thin adapter, because you should use an extension tube or something to compensate the flange focal length difference.
Obviously, there should be an adapter to mount M42x1/45.5 (SLR) lenses on M39x1/28.8 (rangefinder, without coupling, of course). But I never saw one until recently, when I bought one by chance.
Yes, it is for a M42x1 lens:
And for a M39x1 camera:
I don't know the origin of the adapter, if it is handmade or serial product. Its quality is good.
The most important thing is the length of 16.7mm (45.5-28.8). It allows direct mounting of M42x1 lenses without an extension tube.
This adapter (with the M39x1-FE adapter) on the right, the M42x1-FE adapter on the left:
Note that they are the same length.
And the Takumar 105/2.8 (II) mounted on the adapter (together with the M39x1-FE adapter).
The M42x1-M39x1 (4.5mm) adapter on the left, the M42x1-M39x1 (16.7mm) adapter on the right.
See also related notes:
- Leica M as universal mount (2024-08-01)
- Thread mount adapters for M39x1 (2024) (2024-06-12)
- Thread mount SLR lenses for M39x1 rangefinder cameras (2024-05-20)
Image albums:
2024-03-19
Pentax DA L 18-55/3.5-5.6: Using on FF
My rather useless test of the Pentax DA L 18-55/3.5-5.6 lens (11 elements in 8 groups) on a full frame camera (Sony a7c). I was interested in determining the focal length at which vignetting becomes acceptable (this lens is designed for APS-C sensors with 1.5x crop factor).
Of course, the hood was removed. More precisely, the L version of the 18-55 lens doesn't come with a hood.
At 18mm:
At 24mm:
At 28mm:
At 35mm:
At 45mm:
At 55mm:
So I consider the Pentax 18-55 to be usable from 28mm on a full frame camera. By the way, 18mm on an APS-C camera is also equivalent to 28mm.
See also related notes:
Image albums:
2024-03-18
Pentax K 55/1.8: Samples [1] - FF
Photos taken with the Sony a7c (FF, 24MP) and the Pentax K 55/1.8 at f/1.8.
And sunstars at f/8-f/11:
2024-03-17
Sony a7c: My experience with metering modes
For many years, I used multi-pattern (multi-zone) metering on digital cameras (Pentax, Samsung, Ricoh), often with negative exposure compensation (usually -0.3, -0.5, -0.7EV). The goal is to preserve highlights, while shadows can be recovered quite easily (and of course I only use raw files).
At first I used the Sony a7c in the same way: the "Multi" metering.
But then I switched to the "Entire Screen Avg." mode, hoping for 0EV compensation. However, in some conditions it was still necessary to use negative exposure compensation to save highlights.
And then I discovered the "Highlight" mode. And this mode is so aggressive in saving highlights, that I started using positive exposure compensation! Usually I choose +0.7EV. And that is enough for almost all typical conditions. I even turned off the "Zebra pattern" setting because it makes manual focusing more difficult and doesn't help much with this configuration.
2024-03-16
Staeble-Werk Choro R 35/4.5: Lens cap replacement
My Staeble-Werk Choro R 35/4.5 lens did not have a front cap. It is a tiny lens, so it is difficult to find a suitable modern lens cap.
Fortunately, a universal FH-32 cap I bought for the Victar lens fits.
It is not the ideal solution, but it is better than nothing.
See also related notes:
Image albums:
2024-03-15
Olympus E-PL1: Firmware upgrade
My Olympus E-PL1 had the stock firmware. I wanted to upgrade it, but unfortunately there is no official way to upgrade the firmware by copying a binary image to an SD card (unlike Pentax, Ricoh, Samsung, etc.).
One site provides instructions and image links for an unofficial upgrade. But not for the E-PL1 camera (only for E-PL1s).
So I bought a cheap USB cable (CB-USB6/CB-USB5 replacement, not original) for $2.
Surprisingly, it works.
For the firmware upgrade, I used OM Workspace (on Windows 10) as recommended.
It successfully upgraded the E-PL1 body firmware from version 1.0 to version 1.3.
For the 14-42/3.5-5.6 lens, however, there is no upgrade.
See also related notes:
Image albums:
2024-03-14
Film camera: Pentax K instead of M39x1
I bought two M39x1/28.8 rangefinder film cameras, and I was disappointed. The first (the Zorki-6) had a broken shutter. The second (the FED-2) had some internal damage. I returned both to the sellers.
Such cheap cameras are old and unreliable, and their sellers are incompetent or just plain lying. Meanwhile, good cameras are too expensive.
I decided that a M39x1/28.8 rangefinder film camera is not a good choice as a first camera to return to film photography (with modern expensive rolls of film). There are too many risks to spoil film.
Even though I do not like SLR cameras, a Pentax K-mount SLR film camera is a better choice. Especially since I have good Pentax K-mount lenses (28mm, 30mm, 35mm, 50mm, 55mm, 100mm, 135mm, 200mm, 500mm). Also M42x1 lenses can be mounted (with some limitations).
I would prefer a simple K-mount camera with manual film advance and manual focus. It should have a TTL light meter with manual (non-DX) ISO selection. It should be powered by cheap and easy to find LR44 batteries. It could be a Pentax camera, but is not required. Ricoh, Cosina, etc. will do.
2024-03-13
Staeble-Telexon E 85/5.6: Samples [1] - FF
Photos taken with the Sony a7c (FF, 24MP) and the Staeble-Telexon E 85/5.6 at f/5.6.
See also related notes:
Image albums:
2024-03-12
Samsung NX lenses: My statistics (2010-2024)
I have been using Samsung NX cameras since 2010. Although I have sold most of my NX equipment, I still have two lenses (NX 20/2.8, NX 30/2) and two cameras (NX10, NX2000).
For my interest, I calculated the usage of Samsung NX lenses for the period 2010-2024 (cameras are NX10, NX20, NX300, NX300M, NX500, NX2000). This statistic is based on the number of SRW (raw) files and their EXIF data (LensID/LensType in terms of exiftool).
Percentage of SRW files by lens:
| Lens | Percentage |
|---|---|
| NX 30mm/2 | 67.34% |
| NX 20mm/2.8 | 6.97% |
| - Manual lenses - | 5.52% |
| NX 16mm/2.4 | 5.09% |
| NX 45mm/1.8 | 4.91% |
| NX 18-55/3.5-5.6 OIS (III) | 3.93% |
| NX 10/3.5 Fisheye | 2.30% |
| NX 50-200/4-5.6 OIS (III) | 1.65% |
| NX 60/2.8 Macro OIS | 1.27% |
| NX 20-50/3.5-5.6 (II) | 0.52% |
| NX 16-50/3.5-5.6 PZ OIS | 0.50% |
As expected, my most popular Samsung NX lens is the NX 30/2 (45mm f/3 equivalent). In fact, I used it a lot. It was and still is my favorite Samsung NX lens.
This distribution is not just a matter of focal length. The nature of a lens is also important. For example, I was disappointed with the NX 60/2.8 because of its size. Or, there were cases where the NX 18-55/3.5-5.6 was used only because of OIS (optical image stabilization). The NX 20/2.8 is handy but optically weaker than the NX 30/2. And so on.
2024-03-11
724mix - OS/2 mixer for YMF724 [OS/2, 2000-2001]
724mix is a simple mixer for OS/2 with a text mode interface for YMF724 based sound cards. I wrote it in C++ in 2000-2001.
Now I have released the source code: https://github.com/malykhcom/724mix
Notes:
1. Some source files (shared with Qu-Player/2) are missing. It is impossible to build the application without modifying them.
2. Although it is formal C++ code, it is more C code with some C++ syntax sugar.
3. And typical for my old code, "t" is used as a loop counter name.
See also related notes:
- Loop counter name: "t" vs "i" (2024-02-21)
- Звуковые карты: Genius YMF724, C-Media CMI8738, Creative Audigy 4 (SB0610) и Audiotrak Prodigy Cube (2012-02-20)
- Qu-Player/2 (2011-12-17)
2024-03-10
Clarinet Marmalade, Fletcher Henderson, 1926 (different)
This is the version of "Clarinet Marmalade" that I was looking for and have found. It is by Fletcher Henderson, 1926 (different).
This is the best version of "Clarinet Marmalade" in my opinion.
2024-03-09
FED 2: Rangefinder film camera
Yet another M39x1 rangefinder 35mm film camera. This time it is the ФЭД-2 (FED-2).
The FED-2 (1952-1970) was a direct competitor to the Zorki-6 (1959-1966). Both are M39x1 rangefinder cameras. On the one hand, both are very simplified (no slow shutter speeds, no light meter), but on the other hand they have the coupled rangefinder, which is combined with the viewfinder, and the rangefinder base length is quite long (due to the lack of a slow shutter speed mechanism). This is one of the advantages of these cameras.
Note that the 1969-1970 FED-2 is a different camera with a different design and appearance (it's a stripped-down version of the later FED-3 with an advance lever/crank), its rangefinder has a shorter base length.
I think the pre-1969 FED-2 is overall the best practical camera in the FED line. It is quite usable (unlike the earlier ones) and at the same time looks nice (unlike the later ones). The lack of a light meter is not a problem today (at least you can use a mobile application instead).
My FED-2 is the PE0400 version. It's characteristic is the dark red (wine) color, a flash sync terminal on the front panel near the lens mount, a new design of the shutter speed dial, and the lack of a self-timer. This version was produced only in 1957. I was especially looking for this FED-2 version because I like non-black colors and the front panel without a self-timer: it makes the camera look more vintage.
This FED-2 does not have a film advance lever/crank. You have to turn a knob to advance the film and cock the shutter. It is not a fast action, but I like the feel of the old days.
This version allows you to change the shutter speed before and after the shutter is cocked. But some early versions may require you to cock the shutter before changing the shutter speed.
Like the Zorki-6, the FED-2 has five shutter speeds (not including Bulb). But this version uses an old shutter speed scale: 1/25, 1/50, 1/100, 1/250, 1/500. The updated scale (1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500, similar to the Zorki-6) is used from 1959.
The shoe mount is "cold", but there is a sync terminal (from 1956).
There is a diopter adjustment on the viewfinder (under the rewind knob).
It is a very good thing, but the adjustment can easily be changed by accident.
Unlike the Zorki-6 (where the film door is used), the FED-2 has a removable back (film cover).
It is nice to have a tripod mount close to the lens mount.
It is a 3/8" ("big") thread mount. To mount the camera on a modern tripod, an adapter to 1/4" should be used.
I like the FED-2 better than the Zorki-6: the design, the look, the feel. And as I said before, the Zorki-6 is too similar to some Zenit SLRs, which I do not like very much.
My FED-2 camera looks like a good copy. The shutter works, but in cold weather there are some problems with slow speed (at least with 1/25). There were also some minor problems with the rangefinder (which I fixed).
And I had some questions about the reliability of this copy. I also found some minor damage that the seller didn't mention. After some negotiations, I returned the camera.
So once again I have no 35mm film camera to use.
See also related notes:
- Zarya: Scale focus film camera with interchangeable lenses (2025-01-28)
- Film camera: Pentax K instead of M39x1 (2024-03-14)
Image albums:
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)