Pentax M 200/4: Samples [2] - FF - f/4

Photos taken with the Sony a7c (FF, 24MP) and the Pentax M 200/4 at f/4.

See also related notes:

• Pentax M 200/4 (2016-06-08)

Image albums:

• Pentax M 200/4

APS-C vs Micro 4/3: FOV

Two digital cameras: the Samsung NX2000 (APS-C, crop factor 1.5x) and the Olympus E-PL1 (Micro 4/3, crop factor 2x).

Using the same lens, the Olympus E-PL1 has a smaller field of view. I took a picture with the Samsung NX2000 (and the Pentax K 35/3.5) and drew the boundaries of the field of view of the Olympus E-PL1:

Note that the aspect ratio is different: 3:2 on the NX2000 and 4:3 on the E-PL1.

Also a fun fact, the E-PL1 has fewer pixels (12MP vs 20MP), the sensor size is also smaller. And these two cameras have very close pixel densities of about 230 pixels per mm (~5900 ppi, for the FF sensor it would be about 46MP) . So it makes sense to compare their resolutions with the same lens.

Image albums:

• Olympus E-PL1
• Samsung NX2000

Jeep Cherokee KJ: ABS control module and SZ Viewer

It is possible to connect to the ABS control module of my Jeep Cherokee KJ with CASCADE (see 1, 2, and 3). But I wanted to use my SZ Viewer application. So I added this module support to SZ Viewer.

SZ Viewer can read DTCs (the main objective):

And some values (for 52129438AC):

This SZ Viewer edition is for my personal use only (SZ Viewer is of course aimed at Suzuki). Maybe in a next update this support will be kept.

See also related notes:

• Jeep Cherokee KJ: ABS/ESP working again (2025-01-22)
• SZ Viewer W1-2024-12-07 (Windows), L1-2024-12-07 (Linux) (2024-12-07)
• SZ Viewer A1-2024-08-26 (Android) (2024-08-26)
• Jeep Cherokee KJ: OEM front ABS sensor and Iljin hub (2024-08-14)

Image albums:

• On-board diagnostics

Angarsk: Set of 10 photo cards from around 1966 (incomplete)

A rare set of Angarsk photos from around 1966 (or later): 10 photos. Unfortunately I don't have 4 photos from this set.

And there are also my photos of the same places (August 2024).

Disclaimer: My photographs are nothing more than a documentation of reality.

1. Горсовет. Gorsovet/The city council

No photo

2. Дворец культуры. A palace of culture.

No photo

3. Площадь им. Ленина. The Lenin square.

No photo

4. Кинотеатр "Победа". The "Победа" (Pobeda/Victory) movie theater.

There is a movie poster:

I think it is the movie "Необыкновенный класс": Neobycejná trída/An Unusual Class (Czechoslovakia, 1964/1965). The movie was released in the USSR in 1966. So these photos are from 1966 or later.

5. Детский мир. A "Children's world" shop.

6. Дом спорта. A sports house.

7. Главпочтамт. The main post office.

No photo

8. Телеателье. A TV repair shop.

A very similar photo was in another set.

9. Плавательный бассейн. A swimming pool.

10. Проспект им. Ленина. Lenin Avenue.

See also related notes:

• Angarsk: 4 photo cards from around 1966 (2024-08-28)

Image albums:

• Angarsk

29x2.1 wheels: First puncture

Just a after few days after mounting new 29x2.1 wheels I got a flat rear tire.

A small piece of glass punctured the tire and tube.

Maybe this is just a coincidence. But now I pay more attention to tires and try not to ride over glass and other dangerous objects on the road.

And I went years without a flat on WTB 27.5x2.8 and 27.5x3.0 tires.

See also related notes:

• Kenda 28/29x1.9-2.35 tube (2024-08-30)

Image albums:

• Bicycle

Accuracy of light meter apps [Android, Nokia 5.3]

I have noticed that light meter apps on my Nokia 5.3 phone display incorrect exposure values.

For example, Light Meter by Luminis Labs (I like the simplicity of this app).

Sunny day, no clouds in the sky, outdoors. The Sunny 16 rule in action: I set ISO 100 and f/16.

I was expecting a shutter speed of 1/100 (or even faster). But the app showed a much slower 1/20. That is at least +2EV overexposure.

Maybe the main camera is reporting wrong values. Maybe the real sensitivity is much lower than stated.

Maybe a negative film allows such overexposure, but I want to control the degree of overexposure myself.

So, after the disappointment, I decide to use a good old dedicated light meter. A model without a digital display, with only a dial you should turn and then choose a pair of the aperture and the shutter speed. And the model should be powered by a cheap modern battery.

See also related notes:

• Sekonic Auto-Leader L-188 light meter (2024-09-26)

Image albums:

• Android
• Light meter

Auto-Takumar 105/2.8: Samples [1] - FF - f/2.8

Photos taken with the Sony a7c (FF, 24MP) and the Auto-Takumar 105/2.8 at f/2.8.

See also related notes:

• Auto-Takumar 105/2.8 (M42x1): 4/4 generation (2024-04-02)

Image albums:

• Auto-Takumar 105/2.8

Uvex Pheos One (9192370): After one year

The Uvex Pheos One (9192370) safety glasses are cheap and their quality is not so good. There is some film coating on the inside of the lenses. And after one year, this coating started to peel off.

Then the coating came off even more after just washing with water. So I removed the coating completely.

As far as I understand, the coating is not an anti-reflective coating. It looks like an anti-fog coating. The glasses can still be used in the summer. Anyway, I have another pair.

See also related notes:

• Uvex Pheos One (9192370) (2023-07-22)

Image albums:

• Bicycle

Angarsk, abandoned tram tracks (August 2005)

Angarsk, abandoned tram tracks, August 2005. Later these tracks were completely removed.

Pentax *ist Ds (1.5x crop factor, 6MP) + unknown manual focus lens

Image albums:

• Angarsk

Pentax DA 14/2.8: Samples [2] - APS-C

Photos taken with the Pentax *ist Ds (1.5x crop factor, 6MP), the Pentax K10D (1.5x crop factor, 10MP), and the Pentax DA 14/2.8 at f/8-11. The profiled lens (distortion/vignetting) correction is disabled.

I like the Pentax sunstars.

(Pentax *ist Ds, f/11)

(Pentax K10D, f/9)

(Pentax *ist Ds, f/8)

(Pentax K10D, f/8)

(Pentax *ist Ds, f/8)

(Pentax K10D, f/9)

(Pentax K10D, f/9)

See also related notes:

• Pentax DA 14/2.8 (2006-12-23)

Image albums:

• Pentax DA 14/2.8

Leica M as universal mount

For the Olympus E-PL1 I bought an adapter for Leica M lenses, although I do not own such lenses. One reason is the very short flange focal distance for a film camera mount. With an additional adapter I can mount almost all my film lenses.

1. With an M39x1 - Leica M adapter:

It is possible to mount M39x1 lenses.

2. With a Pentax K - Leica M adapter:

It is possible to mount Pentax K lenses.

There are two options to mount M42x1 lenses:

3. Using a Pentax K - Leica M adapter and an M42x1 - Pentax K adapter:

4. Using an M39x1 - Leica M adapter and an M42x1 - M39x1 adapter:

5. Some lens mounts can also be used with appropriate adapters for an M39x1 - Leica M adapter.

6. I could also use a Nikon F - Leica M adapter, but I only have one lens with this mount, so I don't really need it.

See also related notes:

• My lenses by mount (2024-06) (2024-06-27)
• Thread mount adapters for M39x1 (2024) (2024-06-12)
• Leica M-M4/3 adapter (2024-05-12)
• M42x1-M39x1 adapter (16.7mm) (2024-03-20)
• Olympus E-PL1: Micro 4/3 mirrorless camera (from 2010) (2024-02-29)
• Noname M39x1-Leica M adapter (2023-08-21)
• Noname Pentax K-Leica M adapter (2023-08-08)
• Использование M42x1 на Pentax K (2016-06-22)

Image albums:

• Lens accessories

"Pay to not update"

This is a way to monetize free software.

Free copies of software receive updates for free. These automatic updates are first in line, with no way to revert to an earlier version. The software soon stops working if it is not the latest version.

Meanwhile, paid copies of the software install updates last in line, or update installation can be turned off. It is also possible to revert to a previous version.

Staeble-Telexon E 85/5.6: Samples [2] - FF - f/5.6

Photos taken with the Sony a7c (FF, 24MP) and the Staeble-Telexon E 85/5.6 at f/5.6.

(Historical artifact from the 1980s: Мир - Космосу! Peace in Space!)

See also related notes:

• Staeble-Telexon E 85/5.6 (M39x1/44): Telephoto lens for [Super] Paxette II (2023-09-27)

Image albums:

• Staeble-Telexon E 85/5.6

exiftool: Lens, camera, film information

Since I use a lot of manual focus [non-electronic] lenses, I try to add EXIF metadata as I remember it.

I use exiftool to do this. The basic metadata to add is the lens model. My experience has led me to these options:

exiftool -P -ext jpg -LensModel="Steinheil Quinon 50/2"  -FocalLength="50 mm" -overwrite_original directorypath

-P means to keep the original date/time of the file

-ext jpg means to process only JPEG files (I don't want to modigy raw files anyway), this allows to point to a directory (directorypath).

Sometimes I also save the aperture value:

exiftool -P -ext jpg -FNumber="2.8" -overwrite_original directorypath

-FNumber is used.

For film scans I also try to add EXIF:

exiftool -P -ext jpg -Make="Vivitar" -Model="V3800N" -Software="Fomapan Classic" -ISO="100" -overwrite_original directorypath

I chose to use -Make for the camera maker, -Model for the camera model, -Sofware for the photographic film name, and -ISO for the film speed (ISO sensitivity).

See also related notes:

• Metadata for film shooting (2024-09-30)

Vivitar V3800N: Viewfinder

The Vivitar V3800N has a pretty good viewfinder, as you would expect from a manual focus SLR (stated 92% field of view and 0.91x magnification with a 50mm lens). There are split-image and microprism aids on the focusing screen.

Out of focus:

In focus:

There are also three TTL metering indicators in the viewfinder (as I wrote before, batteries are only needed for TTL metering):

The "+" indicates overexposure. The "-" indicates underexposure. The green circle indicates correct exposure. Rotate the speed dial or an aperture ring to change the exposure.

The green indicator and a "+" or "-" indicator may glow together, indicating slight overexposure or underexposure (which are OK). 

The disadvantage of the viewfinder is the lack of diopter adjustment.

See also related notes:

• Vivitar V3x00: Light meter limitation (2025-04-15)

Image albums:

• Vivitar V3800N